watch

New for 2010. Hautlence is giving its "TV screen" style watch line a redesigned face. Inside the watch is the HL08 manually wound movement that features a dial for the hours, retrograde minutes dial with a really unique hand, and a small seconds dial (the most traditional dial of the bunch). The HL08 seems to play with three dimensionality. Everything seems to have height to it. Much of the dial is actually the movement, all nicely hand-decorated for a unique look which is all Hautlence. The case is in 18k white gold and 43.5mm wide by 37mm high (not really as large as it looks). Hautlence has made a great name for itself with these unique looking dials and ways to indicate time, but I think that have boxed themselves in a bit as it is hard to innovate or add complications based on what they have designed. Nevertheless, I look forward to what the brand will release next.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

The last few years has seen Waltham, a traditional name in American watch making, come back. The real story behind the resurgence is unknown to me. I don't know if it is brand originals, or new owners who are furthering the legacy of the name. Either way, their new men's and women's watches have been impressing me. Nice bold designs with a classic touch that makes them more enjoyable avant garde. It really starts with their distinctive case with its highly flared lugs and complex (almost Cartier-like) case. What I do know is that the former American brand is all Swiss now - so I think it is a Waltham corporal resurrection with a new brain.

For 2010, a new men's model for them is this Waltham Crescent. It has a sporty look to it, but is a luxury timepiece. The 43mm wide case is available in 18k white, rose, or yellow gold, with a high-end La Joux-Perret Calibre 3513 automatic movement with a 22k white gold rotor. The movement is even COSC Chronometer certified and has the time, big date, and a power reserve indicator feature. The crystal is AR coated sapphire, and also like Cartier watches, there is a blue gem as a crown cabochon.

I quite like the black dial with white gold case combo, but there is also a white dial available. It seems odd that a traditional railroad watch has now turned into a luxury half retro, half sporty brand. The sport part of the design is all in the dial, with its large, almost dive watch style, hands and hour indicators. In all, a nice cohesive look but they made the hands pretty stubby (why do they do that!?)

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

These new watches from RSW (Rama Swiss Watch) are more mainstream versions of the interesting RSW Outland that came out a few years ago. I have to admit I like these watches a lot, and there are even more versions than the ones you see above. With at least 7 color combos, this is going to be one of the most colorful avant garde sport watches out there. The case is mechanically sophisticated, with RSW's unique pull out crown system. It is in PVD (or matte) steel with a rubber strap. There is even an 18k pink gold cased variant, and of course versions with diamonds as well (are diamonds ALWAYS necessary?).

The case size is 44mm wide but not super thick at just 12mm. Inside the watch will be an automatic Swiss movement (not sure the specific model). The dial of the Outland 3H (which stands for "three hands") has some influence from their Tool Diving watch, as well as from digital watches. Looking at the font for the 12 o'clock indicator and you'll see something that looks appropriate on a digital alarm clock. The colors which include, white, orange, blue, and green are all done in SuperLumiNova luminant. In addition to the matte black dials, there will also be white, silver, or yellow dials (with black markers on them). Those should be pretty cool as well.

Overall and exciting collection for the modern guy who wants something unique, unconventional, but still easy to use on a daily basis. Most RSW Outland 3H models should be a few thousand dollars in price.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Can you call something a watch that does not tell the time? I am not sure. Well assuming you can, this new watch is from Haldimann Horology, and it is the H8 Sculptura. In a nutshell it is a tourbillon movement with the tourbillon in the center of the dial, and well nothing else. The starkness of everything except the tourbillon is meant to emphasize and draw all of your attention to the tourbillon escapement.

As most of you know (and some don't), a tourbillon is an expensive source of visual interest. They are fun to watch, and that is just about it when it comes to practicality. Of course, they are hard to make as well. Haldimann Horology touts this as an "art piece," or rather a moving sculpture where the tourbillon is the art. Yea, that is sort of cool, but for the money this watch likely costs, you can probably get a watch with a tourbillon that you can see in operation, as well as other things, such as the time maybe? The H8 Sculptura comes in a 39 or 42mm wide case in platinum, with a sapphire crystal (front and back), and features a relatively nice case design.

It has been suggested that the new popular luxury Ralph Lauren watch brand isn't as original as they claim - "borrowing" lots of influence from Hermes. This is probably true to an extent, with Hermes being one of the first luxury equestrian themed watches - not necessarily the novel looking Ralph Lauren Stirrup watch collection. The Hermes Arceau collection has had a bit of a stirrup look in it for a while. The newest piece to enter into the collection is this new Arceau Skeleton watch that will be unveiled soon. The timepiece uses the 41mm wide Arceau steel case, with a highly skeletonized and perlage decorated Vaucher H1 automatic movement inside. Really cool is the automatic rotor that has been skeletonized in a manner to portray the Hermes logo.

There are two version of the watch - either with a black or brown dial. The dial is really just the chapter ring with the curved, cursive numerals and the matching colored alligator strap. Functions include just the time, but done so nicely with blued steel hands over the highly attractive skeletonized movement that serves as most of the dial. Having the hour indicators on the flange helps in making the watch actually readable. A nice watch by the high-end fashion and luxury item brand - available soon. My choice is the brown version to match the brand's brown and orange signature tones.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

It seems to make sense that TAG Heuer teamed up with Tesla Motors - though I don't quite understand why I think that. Successful marketing on behalf of both sides I guess. The collaboration between the brands may continue for a while (likely not going to be like the maligned and now extinct Panerai Ferrari deal) - but the first consumer result is something that I have never seen before. It is a watch themed car. Something I never thought would occur. The rest of the time it is a car themed watch. How fascinating the result is. The bad news? This is a one-off car for now. No word on whether anyone will be able to purchase this cool Tesla Roadster or one like it. Call it a hunch, but I believe that Tesla and TAG are going to be doing things together in the future.

The case comes complete with some cool graphics on it and the TAG Heuer name. The side swooshes are in white with gears in them. Pretty cool. Note the green and red side mirrors that are trademark TAG Heuer colors. The car is actually done as part of TAG's 150th's anniversary. Inside the car will be a special Heuer vintage 1/5 of a second stopwatch and a TAG Heuer Meridiist luxury mobile phone. People who attend the Geneva auto show will get to check out the unique electric sports car, and then it wil be driven to Baselworld for us watch nerds to view. You can thank TAG Heuer's reassuringly burly guards in advance, who will need to prevent me from driving off quickly (but quietly) in the high-tech, fast driving, watch themed, zero polluting, wonder-mobile.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Right out of house Bulgari continues to slither new Serpenti models, the collection of watches and jewelry for (mainly) women. I reported on the collection last year here, and above you will see a new model in the snake inspired collection. Snake-like? Worm-like? Feminine-look? Sometimes your guess is as good as mine. The watches clearly are based on animals with segmented bodies, but this newest version could be an Earthworm and I wouldn't know the difference. The complex segmented gold body of the watch (in 18k gold or steel) is cambered, and done in a way to wrap around your wrist like an Egyptian style upper arm adornment. In typical Bulgari fashion the piece can be have with or without diamonds on the case (if you opt for the stones you'll find 38 of them on bezel). The face of the watch takes the form of the serpent's head, though here in a less dangerous "clock face form." The dial is pretty easy to read being in black or silver, with a Bulgari B033 quartz movement inside to power it. The dial is covered with a sapphire crystal, and the little crown has a pink rubellite cabochon placed in it. It is certainly an interesting piece with a design finish worthy of the brand - but a fan base that will be no doubt niche.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

One of the real treats in Girard Perregaux's newer 1966 collection watch line up is this 1966 Annual Calendar & Equation of Time watch. Last year it was presented in rose gold and this year we get a white gold version. Although complex, the watch itself feels simple and approachable. While I was unsure what to make of the odd assortment of asymmetric details on the dial at first, I have come to appreciate the piece after spending some time with it.

One of the theories I believe, behind the layout design is ease of reference. That means not having to visually search too long for what you are looking for. Not only are dials in unique places on the dial, but they also have their own unique style of hands. In time, wearers of the watch will quickly be able to search what they are looking for on the dial. The beautifully made and decorated in-house Girard-Perregaux GP033M0 automatic movement has the time, annual calendar (with date and month), and an equation of time indicator. The annual calendar only needs to be adjusted once each (non-leap year) year, and the equation of time is a nifty guide of how much "civil" time is deviating at any moment from solar time (really only plus or minus 15 minutes at any given time).

Even with all the details it remains a simple look and never harsh on the eyes. The case is modest in size at 40mm wide, and like I said, the case is available in 18k rose or white gold. A great watch so those looking for complex, original, yet classic looking pieces. Price is over $30,000.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

You will not likely have heard about boutique German watch maker Temption unless you are a major watch enthusiast. In America the brand is very rare (but available), but one of my favorites. They combine elements of modern design and Bauhaus (very German), with really satisfying results. While the Temption CGk204 is not a new piece, this year it gets a yellow trim treatment. It is a satisfying and sporty note against the purposeful black and white of the dial, and steel case. The case is 43mm wide and very finely made with lots complex details. I love the column engraved siding and the onyx cabochons in the crown and chronograph pushers.

The watch is attached to a black calf leather strap with yellow stitching that matches the chronograph hands on the dial. Inside the watch is a Valjoux 7751 automatic movement that has a lot of complications for the money. It has the time, 12 hour chronograph annual calendar (with day, date, and month). There is also a synchronized 24 hour hand and a moonphase indicator. Temption does a great job of working with this hard to design around movement layout. You can see the decorated movement through the sapphire caseback window. For a watch this nice from a brand that makes less than 1000 watches a year, price isn't too bad at about $3620. Available soon in yellow, with other tones available for the existing Temption CGK204 watches.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Complimenting the newer Ulysse Nardin men's collection of Classico watches, they have released a lady's version. This one has a diamond and jewel created exotic bird. It is supposed to be emotional, but I am not sure it is more than just a bit gaudy. In addition to the jewels the dial is made from a complex to make enamel. The 35mm wide case is in 18k white gold. While the design of the dial is a bit blase for me, I can't deny the jewelry-like effort involved in producing it. what I do like is the shape of the lugs and the crown with a ring of sapphires around it. The blue of the sapphires and the enamel melds nicely with blue alligator use for the strap (starting to get more popular these days).

Inside this ladies watch is an automatic movement with a decorated 22k gold rotor. It is visible though the caseback sapphire crystal, and is likely more impressive to see than the watch dial itself. All of the parts are in the right place and I am sure that with the next version Ulysse Nardin will supply the Classico Lady watch with more impressive dial imagery.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

I can't wait to see the whole line of new Bulgari version Gerald Genta watches at Basel. To explain what I mean by Bulgari Gerald Genta watches read here. One of the higher-end high-end watch will be this new Octo Grand Sonnerie Tourbillon. This is going to be one very expensive watch, though the dial is surprisingly simple - at least compared to the last watch that I believe had the same, or slightly different movement. That was the Gerald Genta Arena Metasonic watch that goes for $900,000. Given the almost identical features between the two watches, it is more than likely that they share movements. Small differences involve the display of the time, and the dials on the dial. Bulgari gave this Octo Grand Sonnerie a retrograde hour dial and the minutes on a disc. Looks cool, but might prove a pain to read. Then you have four subdials on the face that look like automobile gauges (purposefully done that way). These include power reserve indicators for the watch and the sonnerie (chiming mechanism). Whether you have a grand or petite ("little" as seen on this dial) sonnerie (sort of a volume control), as well as a "chimes" or "silence" indicator (basically an on or off function for the sonnerie).

You have to admit this this is one of the most logical, user friendly dials that you've ever seen a grand (grande) sonnerie watch. The other side of the 43mm wide 18k white gold watch case (not visible in this dial) liked has a series of pushers (or alike) on it. This is a pretty neat looking watch in the Octo watch line with lots of nice details and an open caseback that is sure to reveal the ultra complex manually wound mechanical watch movement. Price will easily be in the astronomical range, and no doubt that this watch will be part of a very limited edition.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Newer "cool & pricey" watch brand Ladoire Geneve has a new ultra limited edition watch - the RGT (Roller Guardian Time) Punk Rock Limited Edition watch. It will come in a set of just three pieces. Started in 2007, the brand headed by namesake Lionel Ladoire, makes less than 50 watches a year. Last year it was just 38 pieces I believe. Even with such limited production the brand has recently been injected with some serious outside funding to expand as sales are good, and almost as important - interest in the brand is high.

I met with Lionel Ladoire in January at the Geneva Time Exhibition. While he personally makes a lot of the components of the Ladoire watches, he is far from the typical watch maker. The timepiece design and naming of it are really an extension of his personality. A young, almost counter-culture looking guy, you'd expect to see him at a concert as opposed to sitting at a watch maker's bench. After meeting him, things like the "Punk Rock" part of this watch's name, or the spider web engraving on one of the discs in the watch start to make sense. In the image gallery you can see two images I took myself of his watches. A good guy overall, I look forward to seeing what his talents come up with next.

New from one of the cooled indy active watch makers I know of is the Vogard Radiator F1. It takes the concept of the standard line of Vogard world time watches and gives it an F1 racing them. The "Radiator" part of the name comes from the skeletonized watch dial that looks like part of a car radiator. The cool watch allows you to adjust the timezone simply by turning the bezel. Open the latch located on the right side of the watch to unlock the bezel motion. The time changes easily without any loss in timing accuracy. There is of course also a 24 hour hand used as an AM/PM indicator - not sure if it is independently adjustable as a GMT hand.

The 43mm wide case is made from black steel and Titanium Carbide. The complex to make case is very hard and water resistant to 100 meters. Another part of the F1 theme are the replacement of the reference time city names on the bezel. They have been replaced by famous F1 tracks all over the world. The timepiece also makes it possible to indicate Daylight Saving Time (DST), when taking into consideration the differences between timezones. The movement is a Swiss automatic specially modified by Vogard. The watch is a difference style that the more conservative line of Vogard watches but is true to the brand's DNA. The watch is available with a number of straps, including a metal bracelet, rubber, or alligator (red or black). Available soon.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

It was a rocky relationship is there ever was one. Several years ago Panerai was given the contract to make Ferrari branded timepieces - luxury ones that is. Panerai was searingly hot in the mid 2000's, with popularity and demand at incredibly high levels. It seemed to make executive sense to have them design and produce watches with the famous Italian stallion super car moniker on them. Sources indicate that the agreement wasn't really something Panerai even wanted to deal with in the first place, but was pressured to engage in by parent company the Richemont Group. Nevertheless, in 2005 the famous Italian watch brand took on the Italian car brand under its horological wing (under a 5 year agreement).

Almost from the beginning the watches could not sell. Consumers disapproved of them, and stores couldn't move them. The watches that probably averaged in the $10,000 range were notorious for losing value - it was almost a joke if someone bought one. The sad thing was that nothing was inherently wrong with the watches. It was just not enough for the money - not nearly enough. For those who really did like the watches, it was a blessing, as you could get one at an incredible discount even brand new from a retailer. In 2005, the two companies began their five year relationship. With the contract due to expire now, neither side has any desire to renew. It is possible that the relationship was botched from the beginning. Ferrari itself seemed to have absolutely no influence on the watches, and Panerai fans just saw the pieces are more expensive, less attractive, and chintzy looking Panerai timepieces.

For those in the industry this is no surprise. The question now is who will Ferrari partner up with next? While Panerai is likely happy to be rid of the deal, others are likely drooling to get the Ferrari name license. Will it be another popular high-end brand? Will Ferrari go down market with cheaper watches that are affordable but don't do the nameplate justice? Perhaps Ferrari will go with another route altogether and find a smaller independent brands that can make high-end watches more akin to the Ferrari look and lifestyle. I will wait and see. Until then, this breakup seems to have no unhappy parties expect for those very few people that actually bought the watches.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

My favorite German watch engraver Jochen Benzinger (aka company Grieb & Benzinger) has a new creation. While Benzinger doesn't always do watches themselves, they sometimes have special items such as this. A lot of the time their special talents are called upon by others who want their watches to have the awesome styles of traditional guilloche engraving that only they can seemingly accomplish.

Here is a new creation from them that is like a sophisticated Frankenstein. The watch case is in all platinum and a larger 49mm wide (heavy at 130 grams, which is good). I like the tradition style engraving on the bezel. The shape of the case is very classic, and looks pretty interesting with the blue reptile strap.

Inside the watch is a very cool item. A vintage manually wound movement made by Patek Philippe in 1887 for Tiffany & Co. Very cool to see Benzinger restore and finish a pocket watch movement that is over 120 years old and put it into this wrist watch. The movement has been modified so that it displays the time in a regulator style format. Plus, the real draw is the minute repeater function of the movement that is operated by the slide level on the left side of the case.

Benzinger created a beautiful skeletonized dial (in their typical style) over the movement. It created a fully operational set of makers, but also allows for a good view into the movement. Such a view is good, given the extensive finishing and polishing of the movement. There is also a healthy use of blued steel all over the watch and movement. So much, that it was wise to compliment the deep blue tones with the colored strap. Overall it is a very cool watch with a mix of personalities from Benzinger, Patek Philippe, and Tiffany & Co. Not sure about the exact price, but Grieb & Benzinger minute repeater watches are between 175,000 - 250,000 euros. Not sure how many of these watches are available, or if it is a one of a kind piece.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.